2020. Back to Corn Island - the magic of Caribbean

2020. Halfway through.

It has been a difficult year so far in that it's been both surprising and challenging. Not being able to see my loved ones and doing the things that I’m passionate about - photography and travel - have been difficult. However, 2020 has had such a nice and promising start. My calendar was filled with work trips and new adventures,  virtually without any day off. Destination weddings were happening in Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Italy, and even Poland. Humanitarian and documentary photography for various NGOs, assignments for magazines, and trips to remote locations and communities were all on the list. I had a lot of plans, but as we learn, everything can change in an instant, and our planner becomes irrelevant. This is definitely not the first nor the last lesson in humility. Now, fortunately for me, I have more time to dig through my archives; this reminds me of how incredible medium photography can be and how fortunate I am to have a job in this field.  

Big Corn Island. The Caribbean dream. 

February was just amazing. I got the chance to photograph a beautiful destination wedding in Big Corn Island, which is a paradise-like island in the Caribbean.  It wasn’t my first trip there, but it was a great opportunity to revive my love for the island experience; the last time I was on an island was a couple years ago. I even made a blog post from my first journey to the Big Corn, and you can find it here. I decided to come a week before the event was meant to start. We usually stay at the Big fish Caffe - it's a small, boutique hotel and restaurant with a warm family atmosphere; not to mention, it's on the beachfront.  We really like the owner - Miss Mary - and her family. On the northwest end of the island, we found a true oasis of peace. It was just us, the sand, some palm trees, a few local fishermen, and the turquoise water. Photographs can tell stories better than I can.

For someone who would like to find out more about the island, you can find a short guide at the bottom of this post. If you would like to see photos of the Caribbean wedding there, please visit: kubaokonweddings.com

My favorite watermelon boat.

The local bakery.

This is such a surreal scene. Horses are wandering freely around the turquoise beaches. It reminds me of some kind of kitschy collage. After noticing me, they ran away to a more deserted part of the beach.

The fisherman was cleaning his most recent catch - a barracuda fish. At one point, he whistled, then threw the fish waste high up in the air. A few dozen seconds later, from a distance of at least a few kilometers, a cormorant appeared to collect its price. It was hard to believe that the bird could hear and see the man from such a long distance. An incredible bond obviously existed between the animal and the fisherman.

The Barracudas

Kids are waiting for the school bus in front of the shrimp-covered bus stop. Each one of the Corn Island bus stops is decorated with a different sea creature, like the lobster, stingray, or crab.

These are Caribbean Patí, which is a type of spicy dumpling. I’m such a huge fan!

They are on their way to school.

They are getting ready for the wedding. The locals are helping to decorate the arch. How cute is this girl's dress?

One of my favorite pictures. Mia is by herself, dancing ballet on the empty beach near her mother’s restaurant.

 

CORN ISLANDS GUIDE:

Where are the Corn Islands located?

The Corn Islands are two nearby paradise-like sister islands known as the Big Corn and the Little Corn. They are located 70 km off the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua. The Islands, along with the eastern half of present-day Nicaragua, once belonged to a British colony.  Due to that influence, Nicaraguan inhabitants speak mostly creole English.  During a period in history,  the islands were frequently visited by Caribbean pirates. Corn Island offers a great opportunity to get off the beaten path and experience the true island atmosphere; the place hasn’t been spoiled by mass tourism. 

Little Corn is about a 45-minute 'panga' boat ride from Big Corn. There aren’t any paved roads there, so it’s a lot quieter and more remote as a result of this. Most tourists tend to stay on Little Corn. This Caribbean island is roughly one square mile in size. 

Big Corn Island is three times bigger, less touristy, and home to the local community. It's colorful, and the people are really friendly and laid back. Life is also a lot simpler on the Corn Islands. While tourism is increasing,  the primary industry of the Big Corn Island is fishing. Big Corn’s economy is based mostly on fishing, lobster hunting, and tourism. It has more of a “reggae” feel too if we are talking about the musical influence on the community. This place is ideal for a person like me that likes to learn about different perspectives on life; love to wander, watch, chat with people, and listen to others' stories.

How to get to the Corn Islands?

You have two options to reach the Corn Islands. A flight with La Costena from Managua airport directly to Big Corn is possible; the ticket price is around $160 per person. The flight takes one hour. You can also take the bus/panga/ferry method. You take a bus from Managua to Bluefields - a town on the Atlantic coast which has a new road.  Before the road was built, the only way was to take a ‘panga’ motorboat from Rama to Bluefields via el Río Escondido. From Bluefields, it is a five-hour ferry ride through the Caribbean Sea to get to Big Corn. The cheaper, longer, and more adventurous option is the latter. You will definitely have some unforgettable experiences and see some amazing views along the way. I did it this way once, and it was fun, tiring, and more intense than expected.

How to get around. 

Most of the places are walking distance from one another on the island.  You can rent a bike or a scooter; you can just take a taxi as well;  one dollar gets you to about anywhere you want on the island.

What to do on the Corn Islands?

There are several ways to explore the island, but walking is probably one of the most pleasing ways to get around. You can explore diverse beaches and get a glimpse of the local way of life. Snorkeling - there are a variety of places that offer snorkeling tours, with a rate of $20 for a few hours. Diving - there are also a couple of dive shops on both of the islands, and you can also get PADI certified. Stargazing - the sky at night is unpolluted and just breathtaking, so you'll want to stay up to see the stars.

What to eat on the Corn Islands?

Coconut bread is made on the islands, as is the traditional Rondón soup which consists of fish, vegetables, and coconut water. Personally, my favorite choice is the Patí, which is a type of spicy Caribbean dumpling filled with meat. We cannot forget it is an island, so all of the seafood is super fresh. You'll want to try the ceviche! For seafood, I can recommend a restaurant called the 'Seaside Grill' and for sweets tooth, the 'Island Bakery and Sweets', which are both located at the northern end of Big Corn. 

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Stories from northern Nicaragua | NGO Photographer

Photography assignment for NGO in Nicaragua.

Recently I have traveled with Fabretto Children’s Foundation to the northern Nicaraguan frontier to document different life stories of families from that region. Some places I visited where quite remote, hidden in the mountains and valleys, without an easy access route. And this time I took with me some of my ‘big guns’. What I mean by this is studio lighting was travelling with me, more specifically, on my back (soft boxes, studio lamps, tripods, batteries and all that necessary heavy stuff).  

I tried to portray stories of hardworking and proud people that move their life forward to better future, regardless of the circumstances. Children, youth, parents, teachers, the entire comunities take this effort, despite difficult conditions.

The 19-year-old Ever has always had a connection and passion for bees. Trough education he developed entrepreneurial skills, which prompted him to organize a honey cooperative with other young people.

Ever says that the bees have taught him a lot on how to work together for the good of the whole community.

How old does Maria look?

Due to severe pneumonia during early childhood and sustained poor nutrition María has suffered a serious delay in her physical and educational development. At 14 years old, she is currently in 5th grade. When asked how she imagines her life when she grows up, María responded: “when I grow older, I want to travel the world and become a great teacher.”

Maria with her mother and her siblings on the bank of a river near her house, the place where she likes to read and learn.

27-years old Yolanda, surrounded by her students, is the local preschool teacher. Due to a lack of space and resources, the Ministry of Education has not yet opened a formal preschool teaching position in Apanaje community. Instead, educators like Yolanda are asked to step up to the plate as volunteers, earning a stipend equivalent to only a fraction of the minimum wage.

Come rain or shine, the preschoolers and their brave teacher can be found in the school hallway or yard.

"Starting with something as simple as teaching children to hold a pencil, I know that I am helping them start their education off on the right foot.” claims Yolanda.

Doña Petrona and Don Jacobo are a farming couple that lives at the foothills of the San Cristóbal volcano. The couple makes a living out of producing basic grains. “Women in my community are not used to working alongside men… that’s why they call me crazy, but I’ve gotten something good out of this madness,” In the most of Latin American countries machismo is a great challenge.

The couple has had to face the catastrophic effects of climate change, such as drought, pests, La Niña weather conditions, among other drawbacks.

On our way to Maria's house. After all, travelling with a lot of equipment is not a big deal if you are accompanied with right people.

5 am. The wind appeared to be brutal that day. My friends from Fabretto Marketing Team struggling against heavy gusts of wind while helping me to sustain the lights. Thanks girls!!

My Photography illustrate Fabretto 2017 Annual Report.
You can see the entire document below:

San Blas Islands - Photography Blog

San Blas Islands

SAN BLAS ISLANDS PHOTOGRAPHY AND TRAVEL

Island hopping in Kuna Yala.

In January my friend Tomek was visiting Central America. I picked him up from San Jose Airport and then we travelled across Costa Rica, Panama and of course Nicaragua. One of the destinations, I haven’t visited yet, that I considered interesting was located in the Northwestern part of the Panama archipelago of islands called San Blas. The archipelago is comprised of more than 360 islands that are scattered around, 49 of which are inhabited. As you can imagine when thinking of the Caribbean Islands, they have it all: blue skies, pristine white sands, clear turquoise water, and coconut palm trees. However, what really drew my attention is that San Blas is an autonomous territory (also called Kuna Yala) ruled by the indigenous tribe of KUNA (also referred to as Guna) people. They preserve their unique cultural heritage, have their own laws and customs, and they control tourism on their own terms. They also speak their own language called Tulekaya which, what is interesting, is only written phonetically; they do not have their own alphabet or written language.

To get to San Blas we left Panama City early in the morning in a 4x4 jeep. The ride is around 3 hours long including one hour of crossing the jungle. The views on the way are spectacular - lush vegetation, huge trees, hills and valleys, a real glimpse of what the jungle looks like. The road is super curvy, going up and down all the time, and even though it has been recently paved, it is still a challenge to get across. Arriving at Porvenir we had to cross the border, pass passport control and pay the Kuna entrance fee (20 dollars). Then we took lancha (motor boat), which was our main mode of transportation from then on. This is where the real fun began. You could see the water changing its color from yellowish to deep blue and finally reaching clear turquoise.  There are basically two rules while using lancha which I’ve learned them from my previous travels: (1) if you sit in the front it is going to be a bumpy ride and (2) if you sit in the back or on the side you might get wet. So I chose the bumpy version, mainly because I wanted to have a better view for taking photos and I didn’t want my photo equipment to get wet. After one hour we reached a small island, inhabited by two Kuna families, which was our destination and home for next few days.

Kuna people are quite timid, generally friendly, but sensitive to having their pictures taken. Kuna women wear their colorful traditional clothes (hand-stitched molas, scarves, beadwork worn on their arms and legs) while most of the men tend to wear regular shorts, T-shirts and baseball caps. They live mostly off of fishing, tourism and trade. I was told that taking photos of Kuna women is not permitted, unless they agree. Kunas, especially those in areas frequented by tourists, will often ask for $1 to have their photo taken, which feels a bit awkward. It’s also prohibited to pick up coconuts on your own. This is understandable considering the amount of tourists passing through. At the end of the day these islands are in fact home to the Kunas. San Blas is also a popular stop for travelers sailing from Panama to Columbia, and vice versa, that want to avoid Darién’s Gap on their way to South America.

All the time we spent in San Blas we were completely disconnected from the mainland - no internet, no cellphone signal, just us on the tiny Island surrounded by clear seas. Every day we were island hopping and visiting new destinations. In general, San Blas offers a stunning diversity of cays, from small tiny oases that are completely uninhabited to relatively big ones inhabited by large communities. Also, I sailed through the Caribbean Sea during a pitch black night for the very first time on this trip. Reaching the shore you could see marine creatures emitting light (bioluminescence) when agitated - magical to say the least. In fact, you can find coral reef surrounding almost every island, so snorkeling is quite an experience as well.

If you want to go to San Blas you can contact MAMALLENA hostel that will help you organize your trip, and put you in contact with the Kuna host.

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My friend Tomek covered in warm, morning, sun. We left Panama City at 4 am..

Well, that's me, my camera bag and my first morning coffee.

Glimpse of the jungle on the way to San Blas

Carti Port, Kuna Yala.

Lancha ride.

That was our home for a few nights. San Blas

Kuna's people laundry.

Famous Molas - Hand sewn panels that make up the front and back of a Kuna woman’s traditional blouse.A traditional Mola is made of several layers of cotton fabric.

Colors of San Blas islands.

Menu is quite similar to other Central American regions. Variation of rice, fish or other sea food and plantains.

Cooperation - Navigate, repel, pump out the water and row.

Playing games at night accompanied by a big bottle of panamanian rum - "Abuelo" - which I personally find delicious.

Deep into RAAS, Nicaragua - documentary photography for NGO

Photography for NGO

I've worked with Fabretto Children's Foundation for some time and this time we travelled really deep into Nicaragua’s most isolated region: the Southern Caribbean Coast Autonomous Region (RAAS). The whole goal of this journey was to document the effort and commitment of both kids, and teachers who  travel long, dangerous distances to learn and share their knowledge.

To get there, we first drove six hours from Managua to Nueva Guinea, and hitchhiked in the back of a truck along a  dirt road for four hours. When the road ended, we made the switch to  horseback riding for another five hours on a long ridge traversing across valleys and rivers. There were moments I felt as though I was back in the XIX century, traveling with a group of cowboys, somewhere in the wild west. Nicaragua can be as treacherous as beautiful. One of our guides fell off the horse and got injured while trying to climb a knoll. He had to walk the rest of the way, which slowed us down.

The heat and harsh sun got us – we arrived at our destination really exhausted. Luckily, we were very well received with a "sopa de gallina" (chicken soup). It's quite delicious and helps to get your energy back. I had brought my own hammock to spend the night, but when the  host –a local  teacher–offered her bed, I could not refuse it.  Little did I know that the 'bed' was basically a wooden board covered with a sheet.

“I can get use to it,” I thought to myself.  Let’s just say - it wasn’t the best night of my life. OUCH! Such is life in the tropics :) In places like this, without electricity and running water, it's the sun that determines the rhythm of the day.  You go to sleep shortly after the sunset, and wake up with the first rays - around Five o'clock in the morning.

Kids are not exempt from this rule. Jarelis, a nine-year-old girl, wakes up when it’s still dark outside to help her mother at home. Everyday, she  collects  wood for the stove, feeds the animals, takes a bath in the nearby river, and washes her own clothes.Once she’s done with household chores, Jarelis walks for over an hour across the jungle – crossing rivers and mountains – to reach school.   During the rainy season,  her journey to school cannot be completed. Due to the strong currents, crossing the river is too great of a risk, forcing her to turn around. I had the opportunity to witness her dangerous trip to school.  We've accompanied her on that journey.

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Z Fundacją Fabretto współpracuje od jakiegoś juz czasu. Tym razem podróżowaliśmy daleko w głąb Nikaragui. Do osady położonej w jednym z najtrudniej dostępnych regionów -  Południowo Karaibski Autonomiczny Region Nikaragui (RAAS). Celem wyprawy było udokumentowanie wysiłku i poświecenia uczniòw i nauczycieli - tych pierwszych w zdobywaniu wiedzy, tych drugich, w dzieleniu się nią.

By dotrzeć do RAAS wpierw musieliśmy przebyć drogę z Managui do Nowej Gwinei, co zajęło nam około sześć godzin. Potem cztery godziny na pace 'pick-upa' wyboistą drogą (a raczej zlepkiem dziur i mulu). Gdy owa ‘droga’ się skończyła , przesiedliśmy się na konie i dodatkowe pięć godzin spędziłem na grzbiecie pokonując wzgórza, doliny i rzeki. Podróżując w grupie jeźdzców poprzez dziewicze, dzikie, tereny czułem się niczym kowboj przeniesiony w czasie. Ale Nikaragua potrafi byc zarówno piękna jak i zdradziecka i jeden z naszych przewodnikòw spadł z konia w trakcie pokonywanie jednego ze wzgórzy. Spowolniło to nieco nasza podròż, gdyż nie był juz w stanie wspiąć się na grzbiet i zmuszony był kontynuować resztę drogi pieszą. 

Upał i palące słońce nas dało nam się we znaki i na miejsce dojechaliśmy wykończeni. Ja miałem zostać w domu z nauczycielem, jego synami i przewodnikiem, podczas gdy moja towarzyszka z Fabretto, Elena, zostala oddelegowana do domu o zenskiej przewadze domownikòw. By ugościć przybysza w Nikaragui w zwyczaju jest by ubić kurę i zrobić rosół. (nieco inny w smaku niz ten polski ze wzgledu na bardziej egzotyczny dobòr warzyw). Wyborna i ożywiająca strawa dla strudzonego wędrowca. Nasz gospodarz zaoferował mi swòj pokòj i łoże, a ja ja nie potrafiąc odmowić, zaakceptowałem (pomimo iż zabrałem ze sobą hamak). Jak się okazało, łòżko to zwykła deska z nałożonym cienkim prześcieradłem. Nie żebym byl wielkim mieszczuchem, ale poobijałem się przez te kilka nieprzespanych nocy. ;) 

W miejscach jak to, bez elektrycznosci i bierzącej wody to słońce wyznacza rytm dnia i ludzie kładą się spać zaraz po jego zachodzie, a wstają wraz z pierwszymi jego promieniami - o piatej rano. Dotyczy to wszystkich, także dzieci.
Jarelis, dziewięcioletnia uczennica i jedna z bohaterek naszego reportażu, wstaje kazdego dnia o tej porze. Przed pòjściem do szkoły musi zdażyć pomòc mamie; nazbierać drewno na opał, nakarmić zwierzęta, wykąpać się w pobliskiej rzece także uprać tam ubrania. Zaraz po tym czeka ją ponad godzinna wyprawa do szkoly przez dzunglę, rzeki i wzgorza. W czasie pory deszczowej bywa to niemozliwe. Ja towarzyszyłem jej w tej podróży - tam i z powrotem.

It might look fun but that's actually the least pleasing part, packed on the back of the truck through the bumpy dirt roads.

Across the Nicaraguan rivers.

The house I stayed in.

Good night RAAS. 'La profesora' (the school teacher and my host) lighting the candle on the little Altar before going to bed.

Good morning.

To get to school you need to break through the jungle first. Jarelis - first on the left.

Then there is a river. It may look beautiful during the dry season, but becomes dangerous during the rainy season - really deep with strong current.

And as you can see above it's not that easy to cross it even during the nicaraguan summer. One bad step, and you end up soaked.

Classroom Nicaragua.

Jarelis, a nine-year-old girl, gets up for school at 5AM. She helps her mother prepare breakfast by bringing the wood for the stove. After, she will feed the animals. She must cross two rivers and go up and down various hills to get to her school. You can fin out more here

Older Grades.

Map of Nicaragua.

Walking back from school - Up the mountain with umbrellas to hide from burning Nicaraguan sun.

Crossing the jungle on the way home.

Everyday you learn something new - it' not an orange. It's 'lemon dulce' (sweet lemon)

Little ducklings. During the night, while sleeping, they we attacked constantly by ants. The ants bite duckling causing paralysis. Then they it it alive. Most of the homes are of dirt floors and wooden boards for walls, and people live with their animals.

5 am. Getting ready to go back.

Nicaraguan green conure Parrots (chocoyos)

Western movie feeling.

On the left - That's how we roll. On the right - Fabretto Foundation Annual report cover with pictures that I took in RAAS. You Can see the whole version here (click)