It's good to be home - Chapter II

Warsaw

Called the Phoenix City, burnt to ashes during World War II by the Germans, rebuilt thanks to huge effort from its citizens. Distorted by the Soviet doctrine that dominated the country for almost 50 years. Where architecture is a reflection of its difficult history: old town, modern skyscrapers and communist housing projects. My Birthplace.

A lot has been told about Warsaw, good and bad, but my truth is that whenever I come here it feels like home.
It keeps surprising me. 

 

My brother, Marcin, is a student. :) what can I say, I'm a bit jealous!

My brother, Marcin, is a student. :) what can I say, I'm a bit jealous!

My top 5 places in Nicaragua

I've been in Nicaragua for a while and I try to explore and photograph as much as possible. The list below is completely subjective. There are of course many other great places in the country, or some that I haven't discovered (yet ;)) .  

Best places in Nicaragua

1. San Juan del Sur

For its variety: You can surf at one of the nearby beaches, check out local food in many good restaurants, or enjoy its rich nightlife, all without straining the budget. San Juan is a little colorful "pueblo" located just 30 minutes away (by car) from the Costa Rican border, set on the beautiful bay and surrounded by dramatic coastline. Mostly visited by surfers, the town features a lot of energy and colors. What I personally appreciate is that it's still not spoiled by massive tourism and you can feel the local vibe and observe the life of a tropical village. On the other hand it's dynamically changing and new restaurants, little shops, hotels, or even local breweries are opening. One of the largest Christ statues is blessing the town from above the hill.

5 Things to do in San Juan del Sur:

  1. Surf at Maderas beach - Surfing rentals start 10$/day, and classes 25/hour

  2. Swim with a view of the paradise or a romantic dinner at Pelican Eyes Resort (best view of the bay)

  3. Try local products - La Porteña Beer, Pan De Vida Bread, jewelry and clothes from Turquesa boutique.

  4. Party! - town is pretty big on partying, most recently a wild Sunday pool party called "Sunday Funday" has become famous

  5. Boat ride along the coast / fishing.

View of San Juan Bay from one of Pelican Eyes Resort's pools
Yellow "Chicken bus" in front of the church in San Juan
Maderas beach, a perfect surf spot
View of San Juan Bay from a boat
Giant Christ statue blessing San Juan del Sur
 

 

2. Corn Islands.

For being a charming quiet paradise. 

Corn Islands are two islands off the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua called Big Corn and Little Corn. You can take a plane from Managua (1 hour flight) or a little fishing boat from Bluefields (5 bumpy hours on the ocean - more adventurous) to get to Big Corn. To get to Little Corn, you must spend 45 minutes extra in a panga (small motorboat).  

White Sand, turquoise water, blue sky, little white clouds, palm trees and really friendly Islanders - that's probably how most of us imagine paradise. You can snorkel, fish, soak up the sun, eat fresh sea food and relax with a book.  Big Fish Cafe is my favorite place to stay at Big Corn (best ratio - standards/vibe/price). Ah, Islanders do speak Creole English among themselves (result of British colonization of Caribbean coast). 

Big Corn Island
fish plantain
Kids playing in water, Corn Island
 

 

3. Tola region and Magnific Rock

If you want to surf and you are looking for really relaxed environment, the Tola region is perfect for you. Probably the best place to enjoy the sunset and the most breathtaking views can found at Magnific Rock. This hotel, restaurant and surf spot is based in the highlands, equipped with a 180 degree view of the ocean and surrounding beaches. If you have a bigger budget you can stay at Aqua Resort, Rancho Santana, or the most expensive and recently opened - Mukul Resort. 

Sunset at Magnific Rock
Colorado Beach, Tola
Sandwich, Magnific Rock
Ranchito, Magnific Rock.jpg
 

 

4. Ometepe 

For the opportunity to really get back to nature and be active outdoors.

Ometepe is an Island composed of two volcanoes, Concepción and Maderas, rising from Lake Nicaragua, the biggest lake in Central America, where fresh water sharks used to live.

Travelers come here often to hike both volcanoes, horseback ride, or swim in the freshwater springs - Ojo del Agua. There is also a 40 meter waterfall located near the southern slope of Volcano Maderas.  Renting a motorbike or bicycle will help you travel around the island and be able to see as much as possible. Ometepe's river, Río Istiam, home to turtles, caimans, and countless species of birds, is really worth exploring (by kayak). 

For a good breakfast, try the Cornerhouse (Moyogalpa town). They have also a couple of nice rooms to rent.

Ometepe Punta Jesus Maria, view of volcano Concepcion.

Below I've attached short, really simple video, of my trip to Ometepe with a friend who was visiting from the US. It's a bit shaky but gives an idea of the Island.

 

5. Cusmapa 

For being off the beaten path.

My last one is not widely recognized, located close to Honduran border, San Jose de Cusmapa is the most elevated town in Nicaragua (1200 meters above sea level / nice when you are tired of the persistent heat). It's really an undiscovered area, surrounded by beautiful forests, highlands scenery, and offering some of most spectacular panoramic views.

Cusmapa viewpoint
 

All images by Kuba Okon. All rights reserved. 

Trip to Corn Island

Big Corn Island, Nicaragua

A trip (by land) from Managua to Corn Island I took a while ago. Some of my pictures and the story were featured in Hecho Magazine, while for others it's their first time being published. 

 

Travel by land: The night bus to El Rama. It leaves Managua at 9.30pm, lurching its way to the Rama docks. Getting sleep on the bus is highly unlikely. We arrive in Rama at 3am.

Travel by land: The night bus to El Rama. It leaves Managua at 9.30pm, lurching its way to the Rama docks. Getting sleep on the bus is highly unlikely. We arrive in Rama at 3am.

The Rama-Bluefields panga is setting off at 6am. There’s a huge line for tickets, it’s raining.

The Rama-Bluefields panga is setting off at 6am. There’s a huge line for tickets, it’s raining.

The military officers here on drug patrol

The military officers here on drug patrol

rio escondido nicaragua
The fully packed panga finally leaves the dock. I’m sitting next to my new friend, chicken. Half way throughout the trip, the panga breaks down – engine failure. It’s also drizzling a little rain through most of this leg of the trip. Chicken and I a…

The fully packed panga finally leaves the dock. I’m sitting next to my new friend, chicken. Half way throughout the trip, the panga breaks down – engine failure. It’s also drizzling a little rain through most of this leg of the trip. Chicken and I are not impressed.

There’s no cel phone signal out here, so we’re stuck waiting for a few hours. Eventually, another panga turns up and we all change boats in the middle of the river. Still haven’t slept

Through the Joungle

Through the Joungle

Welcome to Bluefields - old city of pirates

Welcome to Bluefields - old city of pirates

After 5 hours (instead of 2), we finally land in Bluefields. At least I’m not in a rainy patch of jungle anymore…I head for the port, where I spot some kids fishing. The growing crowd is ready to go already.I’m told I have two options: I can get a s…

After 5 hours (instead of 2), we finally land in Bluefields. At least I’m not in a rainy patch of jungle anymore…

I head for the port, where I spot some kids fishing. The growing crowd is ready to go already.

I’m told I have two options: I can get a smaller boat (departing soon, at 9am), OR I can wait for the bigger boat to set off. I’m about to head out into the open ocean. A big boat sound wiser but the problem is, nobody knows when the big boat is going to leave. Could be a while.

I decide I’m too tired to wait for safety so I hop into the small panga. It’s packed to the gills with so many people and so much stuff that it looks ready to sink. We all have to get off so the panga can be re-packed, and everyone can fit. Then we’re FINALLY ready to go.

port bluefileds
port bluefields
fishermen Bluefields
delicious Pati

delicious Pati

Shipwreck cemetery - El Buff

Shipwreck cemetery - El Buff

I stand for this ride – it’s a 5 hour trip. The ocean’s pretty rough and the boat is bouncing all over the place. Larger waves slap the bow and soak everyone on board. Several people vomit. On and off, the sky spits out some rain. It’s soaking wet and I’m hesitant to pull out my camera. I distract myself by zoning out on my neighbor’s golden watch. 

Big Corn Island waters: the Caribbean colors that people dream about.

Big Corn Island waters: the Caribbean colors that people dream about.

bigcornisland
Big Corn Island: Welcome to paradise

Big Corn Island: Welcome to paradise

kid corn island
corn island paradise
Desayuno: Today’s breakfast is fresh caught fish.

Desayuno: Today’s breakfast is fresh caught fish.

Islanders Big corn island
big corn island road
water big corn island
real canoe nicaragua
house big corn island
house corn island
monkey corn island
islanders corn island
kids corn island
sunset corn island
big corn island
palm trees corn island
water jump cornisland
Corn Islanders are friendly people. The kids spend a lot of time playing in the water.

Corn Islanders are friendly people. The kids spend a lot of time playing in the water.

tree nicaragua
islanders nicaragua
anastasia big corn island
water corn island
fishes corn island
Slivers of gold: this fisherman is painting his boat in the rays of sunset.

Slivers of gold: this fisherman is painting his boat in the rays of sunset.

jake corn island
One of Big Corn’s many fishermen, pausing for thought in his doorway.

One of Big Corn’s many fishermen, pausing for thought in his doorway.

Island baptism

Island baptism

Big Corn Island from above. I took the prop plane back to Managua. It’s a quick flight.

Big Corn Island from above. I took the prop plane back to Managua. It’s a quick flight.